12th April 2013
Summer 2008: Chef Profile, Michel Albert Roux, Head Chef, Le Gavroche
Known as Michel Junior to avoid confusion with his uncle Michel of The Waterside Inn, the younger member of the Roux empire was born in England, seven years before his father and uncle first established Le Gavroche.
Did you always plan to follow the family into a culinary career?
I was born into the kitchen and always felt that I would go into the catering business in one form or another, although it was never a ‘given'. Certainly my education was steered that way pretty effectively from the age of 16, when I was apprenticed to maître patissier Hellegouarch in Paris – a patisserie has always been considered as the best way to start in the cookery business.
As well as working as a commis for your father at 20 and training under Alain Chapel at Mionay in Lyon, you gained experience at a wide variety of establishments – from military service at the Elysee Palace in Paris to stints at the city's renowned Boucherie Lamartine and Charcuterie Mothu, as well as learning how to balance the books at a chartered accountants in London. Who or what has given you most inspiration during your career?
I have worked with a number of tremendous chefs over the years, all of whom have been an inspiration to me. As a young boy, I would stand and watch my father and uncle working in Le Gavroche's kitchen when it was originally located on Sloane Street. I did not feel any pressure to emulate them, but it certainly helped stimulate my interest. At the very start of my career, I worked with maître patissier Hellegouarche and the legendary Alain Chapel, both of whom made a great impression on me – and, of course, I've worked with some fantastic chefs at Le Gavroche over the years who continue to inspire me.
What was your first senior kitchen post?
Sous chef at Gavvers, the original Le Gavroche premises, but there was still more to learn and I moved to La Tante Claire in Chelsea, as commis, working with one of London's greatest chefs, Pierre Koffmann followed by a spell at the Mandarin Hotel in Hong Kong.
In 1985 you joined the family fold working across the Roux empire including restaurants, contract catering and specialist patisserie companies, before taking the reins from your father at Le Gavroche in 1990. At 31 years of age, what was it like filling his shoes?
Taking over from my father certainly meant there were big boots to fill. My style of cookery is different from his and from the early days I wanted to be a bit more inventive, offering something new as well as the classic dishes making the restaurant famous without sacrificing any of the quality. I think he approves – he still eats here regularly!
What's been your proudest achievement?
Probably celebrating Le Gavroche's 40th anniversary last year. Any business would justifiably be proud to have been going for 40 years, but considering the competitiveness of the restaurant industry, to be recognised as one of its leaders this long is truly an achievement. What really made it particularly special was the opportunity to celebrate this landmark occasion with so many colleagues and friends from over the years. It was a chance to celebrate everything Le Gavroche has achieved since opening in 1967, such as being the first restaurant in the UK to be awarded one, two and three Michelin stars.
What are your ambitions for the future?
The main ambition, of course, is to maintain Le Gavroche's position as one of the leaders in the industry and a favoured dining destination. I am also looking forward to the release of my new book next year, which I hope will be very successful.
Who in the industry would you most like to work with?
I would love to work with Martin Wishart, who owns and runs Restaurant Martin Wishart in Edinburgh. Martin is a wonderful chef that I greatly admire, and who has set up his own Cook School in Leith. He worked for me as a commis at Le Gavroche, and is one of many fantastic chefs that have worked at the restaurant over the years. I have worked alongside some other truly remarkable chefs at Le Gavroche such as the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing. Being involved in the Roux Scholarship also allows me to see the up and coming chefs, and our Roux scholars are like an extended family. I have also recently been involved in the first series of Professional Masterchef, and some of the participants in the programme were just fantastic.
What do you think of the TV celebrity chefs?
If cookery on television can either encourage an interest in food and cooking among the general public, or can inspire young chefs that will be the future of the industry, then this is certainly a positive thing.
You recently completed this year's London marathon. Aside from running regularly, how do you spend your leisure time?
This was my 16th marathon, but my biggest problem is recuperating in time for the evening session. I enjoy being with my family and teenage daughter and I'm a Manchester United fan and go to their matches when time allows.
What would you be if you weren't a chef?
Even if I weren't a chef, I would want to be in the industry in some capacity – possibly in a deli, or perhaps in the front of house as a sommelier. Certainly being able to work with and around fine food and wine would be a requirement for whatever I was doing.
I was born into the kitchen and always felt that I would go into the catering business in one form or another, although it was never a ‘given'. Certainly my education was steered that way pretty effectively from the age of 16, when I was apprenticed to maître patissier Hellegouarch in Paris – a patisserie has always been considered as the best way to start in the cookery business.
As well as working as a commis for your father at 20 and training under Alain Chapel at Mionay in Lyon, you gained experience at a wide variety of establishments – from military service at the Elysee Palace in Paris to stints at the city's renowned Boucherie Lamartine and Charcuterie Mothu, as well as learning how to balance the books at a chartered accountants in London. Who or what has given you most inspiration during your career?
I have worked with a number of tremendous chefs over the years, all of whom have been an inspiration to me. As a young boy, I would stand and watch my father and uncle working in Le Gavroche's kitchen when it was originally located on Sloane Street. I did not feel any pressure to emulate them, but it certainly helped stimulate my interest. At the very start of my career, I worked with maître patissier Hellegouarche and the legendary Alain Chapel, both of whom made a great impression on me – and, of course, I've worked with some fantastic chefs at Le Gavroche over the years who continue to inspire me.
What was your first senior kitchen post?
Sous chef at Gavvers, the original Le Gavroche premises, but there was still more to learn and I moved to La Tante Claire in Chelsea, as commis, working with one of London's greatest chefs, Pierre Koffmann followed by a spell at the Mandarin Hotel in Hong Kong.
In 1985 you joined the family fold working across the Roux empire including restaurants, contract catering and specialist patisserie companies, before taking the reins from your father at Le Gavroche in 1990. At 31 years of age, what was it like filling his shoes?
Taking over from my father certainly meant there were big boots to fill. My style of cookery is different from his and from the early days I wanted to be a bit more inventive, offering something new as well as the classic dishes making the restaurant famous without sacrificing any of the quality. I think he approves – he still eats here regularly!
What's been your proudest achievement?
Probably celebrating Le Gavroche's 40th anniversary last year. Any business would justifiably be proud to have been going for 40 years, but considering the competitiveness of the restaurant industry, to be recognised as one of its leaders this long is truly an achievement. What really made it particularly special was the opportunity to celebrate this landmark occasion with so many colleagues and friends from over the years. It was a chance to celebrate everything Le Gavroche has achieved since opening in 1967, such as being the first restaurant in the UK to be awarded one, two and three Michelin stars.
What are your ambitions for the future?
The main ambition, of course, is to maintain Le Gavroche's position as one of the leaders in the industry and a favoured dining destination. I am also looking forward to the release of my new book next year, which I hope will be very successful.
Who in the industry would you most like to work with?
I would love to work with Martin Wishart, who owns and runs Restaurant Martin Wishart in Edinburgh. Martin is a wonderful chef that I greatly admire, and who has set up his own Cook School in Leith. He worked for me as a commis at Le Gavroche, and is one of many fantastic chefs that have worked at the restaurant over the years. I have worked alongside some other truly remarkable chefs at Le Gavroche such as the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing. Being involved in the Roux Scholarship also allows me to see the up and coming chefs, and our Roux scholars are like an extended family. I have also recently been involved in the first series of Professional Masterchef, and some of the participants in the programme were just fantastic.
What do you think of the TV celebrity chefs?
If cookery on television can either encourage an interest in food and cooking among the general public, or can inspire young chefs that will be the future of the industry, then this is certainly a positive thing.
You recently completed this year's London marathon. Aside from running regularly, how do you spend your leisure time?
This was my 16th marathon, but my biggest problem is recuperating in time for the evening session. I enjoy being with my family and teenage daughter and I'm a Manchester United fan and go to their matches when time allows.
What would you be if you weren't a chef?
Even if I weren't a chef, I would want to be in the industry in some capacity – possibly in a deli, or perhaps in the front of house as a sommelier. Certainly being able to work with and around fine food and wine would be a requirement for whatever I was doing.