Walking down from Folkstone Station, which by the way is only 59 minutes from St Pancras International and arriving at Brasserie MS a stone’s throw from Folkstone beach I started to anticipate what delights lunch had in store. Having been told Mark Sargeant Craft Guilds of Chefs National Chef of the Year 2002 was back behind the stoves my taste buds were intrigued and boy I wasn’t disappointed.  

After a two month delay due to builder hold ups Mark finally opened his latest venture in August. Overseeing all of the refurbishment himself and even helping with some of the works Mark has achieved a modern, comfortable, non-stuffy, airy and bright restaurant.

As soon as we sit down, Mark comes bounding out of the kitchen full of enthusiasm to introduce us to his new restaurant, but before getting to us he picks up on something that needed his attention and quickly puts it right. Having known Mark for many years I loved his cooking at Claridges and hoped he’d gone back to his roots, and when studying the menu I realised he had.

The menu gave us multiple choices of going A La Carte, fixed price lunch [£29.50] tasting menu or his daily specials, of which he show cased a couple of his hero’s, Pierre Koffmann and Albert Roux’s dishes.

Before I tell you what my guest and I chose for lunch I must say it was a really difficult choice as there was so many dishes that jumped out asking to be tasted. Showcasing the fantastic seafood of the area and the complex cooking skills that gave Mark his Michelin status earlier in his career.

We started the meal with some wonderful homemade sour dough bread and a small selection of canapes each an explosion of flavour in the mouth. My guest chose the Mosiac of Duck Liver ‘Presse’ with a Truffle Dressing that was cooked to perfection and served at a perfect temperature.

I went for the Lasagne of Seafood, Sauce Aux Crustaces which just melted in the mouth with a complex combination of textures and super tasty shellfish sauce. As a chef if I see trotters or offal on a menu it has to be the choice I make and Mark’s interpretation of Pierre Koffmann Braised Pigs Trotter, served with pickled shallots and truffled mash was amazing.

Desserts had some classic dishes on there, Ile Flottante, Lemon Tart, Apple Tatin, which were amazing but Mark also encouraged his young pastry chef to add to the menu and he had made a Blackberry Bavarois which also nailed a perfect texture.

Throughout the meal Mark pops in and out to talk quickly to the customers delivering the dishes himself on occasion explaining the delights on the plate with enthusiasm and passion. The waiting staff move around professionally engaging with the customers, offering food and wine suggestions.

Three hours later and the walk back to Folkstone station, I can confirm I wasn’t disappointed, Mark is certainly back cooking to his best.