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12th April 2013

Spring 2012: Cutting Edge

Written by: Admin
When choosing the right knife, don’t get misled by the hype, price differences, untrained shop staff and celebrity endorsements, says chef Chris Archambault.
Every chef should own a good basic set of knives. But there’s more to choosing a knife than people think. The weight, shape, balance and sharpness are all important – characteristics that quite a few chefs don’t appreciate – and they will make food preparation easier and safer.

Head chef Chris Archambault has a no-nonsense approach about the knives he uses in his kitchen at Southernhay House Hotel in Exeter, Devon.

“How often have you heard the old adage that it is a poor craftsman that blames his tools?” he says. “The fact is if your knife is blunt, you won’t get far in the kitchen. I’ve been a chef for 16 years and can honestly say that the majority of cooks wield neglected blades, incorrectly clashed together in a builder’s toolbox. The very object that defines us, moulds and shapes the ingredients for our creations, that we simply could not do without, we treat like a second class citizen.”

When searching for a good knife, he says there are a few key points to look for. Fully forged means made from one piece of metal, which is paramount for strength and a sign of top quality. Out of box sharpness means if it won’t glide through paper, it isn’t sharp enough.

Edge retention is another important point. It maybe super sharp out of the box but is it a healthy mix of carbon and stainless steel that can easily be kept sharp? “This is where you can get into trouble with some Japanese knives,” he explains. “Due to the extreme hardness of the steel, they can be quite difficult to bring back when dulled.”

Also, how does the knife feel in the hand? “Does it feel well balanced between the blade and the handle? Is the handle ergonomic and conducive to lots of chopping? Do your knuckles have clearance with the heel of the blade? You can get a nasty callous using some knives.

“Look for any cracks or crevasses in the finish to the handle – this is a sign of poor quality and food can get permanently stuck in these small fissures.”

Archambault says that for years one had to turn to Japan or Germany for a quality, professional chef’s knife. “Simply put: Japan for a super fine sharp edge and appealing to our Samurai sensibilities, and Germany for big sturdy work horses and a strong tradition. This is still largely the truth but for one local hero taking on all challengers.

“The Robert Welch Signature series is winning awards by the fistful. I’m a huge fan and pretty much use them exclusively, bar a couple of specific blades they don't yet have in their range.

“I have become a bit of a collector of knives in general over the years, but the main reason I gravitate to Robert Welch is the handle and the edge retention.

Knives produced by Craft Guild business partner Robert Welch Designs have achieved the highest possible rating from the Guild in its product endorsement programme where products are put through their paces by the Craft Guild’s chef members.

The Signature range, designed in-house by Paul de Bretton Gordon and Rupert Welch, includes 20 knives, two carving forks, a sharpening steel and a handheld knife sharpener. The knives have been tested by Sheffield’s leading test establishment and found to be in the world’s top 1% [of all knives tested] for initial sharpness and edge retention, each blade honed and tempered to razor sharpness using World Edge Geometry inspired by master sword craftsmen from Japan to produce a precision blade.

Each block contains the company’s patented Signature knife sharpening mechanism designed to care for knives simply and effectively.

“There are many snazzy, sparkly and sharp as anything knives out there but, speaking as a chef, nothing compares to the RW handle,” says Archambault. “I also love that they are designed in the UK, the packaging is unsurpassed, and the price is a complete no-brainer.

“At the end of the day, choosing a good knife is a very personal decision. Do a little research, get a chance to feel and use the blade first if possible, and only spend what you can afford. Don't believe the hype when it comes to price, it costs very little to replicate production knives in factories.

Companies prey upon the public’s perception of all things sharp and shiny, so shop around. When it comes to size, bigger is not necessarily best.”

When it comes to caring for knives, he says if you spend more than £20 on a knife, treat it right. “Store it in the box it came in, a knife block, wrap or wall magnet, and keep those edges safe. A steel rod, in particular a diamond steel, is not the best tool for keeping edges in good shape.

“Every chef I know uses steels. But think about it – metal on metal is a big reaction. This routine is eating your knife, most probably not in a straight line. If in doubt, give the rod a good wipe on a white cloth, now blackened from metal filings from your blade’s edge. Even if you are cruising at the right angle – between 12º-20º depending on the knife – there is a lot of room for human error, especially when you are busy.”

He advocates the use of a ceramic wheel sharpener that corresponds to the knives used, to be used little but often to maintain a perfect edge. “The acid test is the ripe tomato. The second you find your knife doesn’t glide through a ripe tomato, eight or 10 strokes on the ceramic will bring you back to box sharp. The key is to not let your knife get dull.”

• For more information, visit www.robertwelch.com or www.christopherarchambault.com